Jiangsu Cuisine: China’s Hidden Culinary Gem
Jiangsu Cuisine Overview🍛
Jiangsu Cuisine, also known as Su Cuisine, is one of the eight major traditional cuisines of the Han Chinese. Due to its similarities with Zhejiang cuisine, the two are often collectively referred to as Jiang-Zhe cuisine. Su cuisine mainly consists of regional styles such as Jinling cuisine, Huaiyang cuisine, Suzhou-Wuxi cuisine, and Xuhai cuisine.
With origins dating back over two thousand years, Jiangsu cuisine has a long and rich history. Jinling cuisine, for instance, traces back to the pre-Qin era, when the people of the ancient state of Wu were skilled in grilling, steaming, and slicing fish. More than a thousand years ago, duck had already become a delicacy in Nanjing. During the Southern Song dynasty, Su cuisine and Zhejiang cuisine were both considered the two pillars of southern Chinese food.
Su cuisine excels in techniques such as braising, stewing, steaming, and stir-frying. Great emphasis is placed on soup stocks and maintaining the natural flavor of the ingredients. The dishes are known for their fresh and delicate flavors—rich but not greasy, light but not bland. Textures are carefully controlled: meat may be tender enough to fall off the bone yet still retain its shape; dishes are smooth, crisp, and flavorful.
*Squirrel-shaped Mandarin Fish (Jiangsu cuisine classic)
*Stir-fried Shrimp with Biluochun Tea (Specialty of Jiangsu cuisine)
📜 Origins and Historical Development
Jiangsu cuisine (also known as Su cuisine) originated during the Southern and Northern Dynasties. In the Tang and Song dynasties, economic prosperity spurred the development of the culinary industry, making Su cuisine one of the two pillars of southern Chinese food. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, Su cuisine spread rapidly—north and south along the Grand Canal, and east and west along the Yangtze River. Its coastal location further enhanced its influence both domestically and abroad.
Su cuisine consists of four major regional styles: Jinling cuisine, Huaiyang cuisine, Suzhou-Wuxi cuisine, and Xuhai cuisine. It is known for its fresh and light taste, a mild sweetness balanced with saltiness, moderate use of pungent ingredients, and a focus on preserving the natural flavor of ingredients. It enjoys a prestigious reputation both in China and internationally. As a land of abundance, Jiangsu is rich in natural resources and food ingredients. Famous aquatic products include the “Three Fresh Delicacies of the Yangtze River” (Chinese sturgeon, hairtail, and white bream), silverfish from Lake Tai, the pristine mitten crabs of Yangcheng Lake, and Longchi crucian carp from Nanjing, along with a variety of seafood.
High-quality vegetables include water shield from Lake Tai, cattail from Huai’an, lotus root from Baoying, chestnuts, gorgon fruit, water bamboo, winter bamboo shoots, and water chestnuts. Renowned local specialties include: Hushu duck from Nanjing, Langshan chicken from Nantong, Yangzhou goose, Gaoyou duck, Nanjing spiced sausage, Rugao ham, Jingjiang jerky, and Wuxi gluten balls.
Distinctive features of Jiangsu cuisine include:
A wide range of ingredients, especially freshwater and seafood;
Delicate knife work and diverse cooking techniques, such as braising, stewing, simmering, and slow-cooking;
A focus on natural taste with a light, harmonious flavor profile;
Elegant presentation with a balance of form, texture, and flavor.
Famous Jiangsu dishes include:
Jinling Roast Duck, Old Duck Soup, Braised Fresh Eel, Duck-Wrapped Shark Fin, Crystal Pork Aspic, Squirrel-Shaped Mandarin Fish, Watermelon Chicken, Salted Duck, Stewed Soft-Shelled Turtle, and Shredded Tofu in Chicken Broth.
Jiangsu has long been a cradle for culinary masters. China’s first recorded professional chef and the first city named after a chef both originated here. According to legend, Peng Zu (also known as Peng Keng) prepared wild pheasant soup for Emperor Yao and was granted his own state—Dapeng, today’s Xuzhou. During the Xia Dynasty, the Huai people offered fish as tribute, and white fish from the Huai River remained a delicacy through the Ming and Qing. As the saying goes, “The finest vegetables come from Lake Tai,” and even during the Shang Dynasty, chive flowers from this region were served in royal feasts.
*Braised Eel with Soft Roe (Jiangsu cuisine)
*Simmered Shredded Tofu in Supreme Broth (Classic Jiangsu cuisine)
Characteristics of Jiangsu Cuisine
According to Qingbai Leichao, compiled by Xu Ke of Hangzhou, “Among cities with distinguished culinary traditions are Beijing, Shandong, Sichuan, Guangdong, Fujian, Jiangning, Suzhou, Zhenjiang, Yangzhou, and Huai’an”—half of which are located in Jiangsu Province. Jiangsu cuisine (also known as Su cuisine) consists of four major regional styles: Nanjing (Jinling), Huaiyang, Suzhou-Wuxi (Su-Xi), and Xuzhou-Haizhou (Xu-Hai). Huaiyang cuisine, situated in central Jiangsu, extends east to Haimen, Qidong, Nantong, Taizhou, and Yancheng, west to Nanjing and Liuhe, south to Zhenjiang and Jintan, and north to the Huai River region.
Huaiyang cuisine is known for its careful selection of ingredients, refined knife work, and precise control of heat. It emphasizes the original taste of ingredients, highlights the main component of each dish, and features elegant, light colors and artistic presentation. Flavors are mild and balanced, making the cuisine widely appreciated. Cooking techniques commonly used include braising, stewing, simmering, and baking in residual heat. Jinling cuisine is famous for duck dishes, while Zhenjiang and Yangzhou cuisines are well-known for chicken and freshwater seafood. The region also excels in traditional pastries, especially those made with fermented dough, hot-water dough, or puff pastry.
Su cuisine specializes in braising, stewing, steaming, and stir-frying. It places great importance on soup preparation, preserving the natural juices of ingredients. The flavor profile is light and fresh—rich but not greasy, mild but not bland. The textures are tender and fall off the bone without falling apart, smooth and crisp while retaining flavor. Jinling cuisine is mellow and delicate; Yangzhou cuisine is light and subtle with meticulous knife skills; Suzhou cuisine tends to be slightly sweet, refined, and elegant. Yangzhou was once regarded as China’s top culinary city, followed by Yizhou (modern-day Sichuan).
Its prosperity greatly advanced the development of Su cuisine. During the Sui and Tang dynasties, exquisite dishes such as Songjiang’s “golden pickled vegetables with jade-white sashimi,” sweet ginger crab, Suzhou’s “peony-style pickles,” and Yangzhou’s shredded sashimi were examples of the artistry in presentation. Staple foods and pastries in Su cuisine were already highly praised during the Five Dynasties period, known then as the “Seven Culinary Wonders of Jiankang.” The rice was perfectly cooked—each grain distinct, soft but not mushy—capable of wiping a table clean. Noodles were so firm they could be tied in knots without breaking.
Range of ingredients🥩
Jiangsu cuisine features a wide range of ingredients, with a particular emphasis on fresh aquatic products from rivers, lakes, and seas. The knife work is meticulous, the cooking techniques are diverse—especially excelling in braising, stewing, simmering, and baking in residual heat. The cuisine values the original flavors of ingredients, resulting in dishes that are fresh, light, balanced, and highly adaptable. Its presentation is elegant, with both appearance and texture harmoniously refined.
Known as the “land of fish and rice,” Jiangsu is rich in agricultural and culinary resources. Among its famous aquatic offerings are the “Three Delicacies of the Yangtze River” (Chinese shad, hairtail, and pufferfish), whitebait from Lake Tai, freshwater hairy crabs from Yangcheng Lake, crucian carp from Longchi in Nanjing, and an abundance of other seafood varieties. Jiangsu also produces an array of premium vegetables, including water shield from Lake Tai, cattail shoots from Huai’an, lotus roots from Baoying, chestnuts, gorgon fruit, water bamboo, winter bamboo shoots, and water chestnuts.
*Sizzling Eel in Scallion Oil (Jiangsu cuisine)
*Jinling Salted Duck (Jiangsu cuisine)
In addition, rare poultry and wild game further enrich the region’s ingredient diversity, providing a solid material foundation for the development of Jiangsu cuisine. The fresh and elegant style of Jiangsu dishes is reflected in their refined and versatile knife skills. Whether in intricately prepared cold dishes, artistically styled hot dishes, fruit and vegetable carvings, or techniques such as boning while preserving shape or carving with delicate transparency, the craftsmanship consistently demonstrates the high level of culinary artistry.
Main Regional Styles🥧
Jinling Cuisine
Jinling cuisine, one of the four major branches of Jiangsu cuisine, centers around Nanjing and extends as far as Jiujiang in Jiangxi Province. Originating in the pre-Qin period, it had already gained fame by the Sui and Tang dynasties and developed into a distinct culinary school during the Ming and Qing dynasties. It mainly uses fresh aquatic ingredients, emphasizing freshness and vitality. The knife skills are meticulous, and the cuisine excels in techniques such as braising, stewing, roasting, and simmering.
The flavors are balanced—fragrant, tender, and delicate. Jinling dishes are refined and elegant in presentation. Known for its precise knife work and masterful control of heat, Jinling cuisine features diverse techniques and flavors that appeal to both northern and southern palates.
Huaiyang Cuisine
Representing a significant portion of Jiangsu cuisine—including Yangzhou, Huai’an, Zhenjiang, Yancheng, Taizhou, and Nantong—Huaiyang cuisine combines the freshness, crispness, and tenderness of southern Chinese food with the saltiness, deep colors, and richness of northern styles. It has developed a flavor profile that balances sweet and savory, with a slight sweetness within the saltiness. Huaiyang cuisine is known for the most delicate knife skills; for example, a 2 cm-thick piece of dried tofu can be sliced into 30 translucent pieces, or shredded into strands fine as hair.
Cold dish preparation and artistic plating demand exceptional precision. A fan-shaped three-item platter may seem simple in concept but is complex in execution. The refined knife work, skillful plating, and sophisticated color coordination make Huaiyang dishes resemble finely crafted works of art.
Suzhou and Wuxi Cuisine (Suxi Cuisine)
Encompassing areas such as Suzhou and Wuxi—and extending westward to Changzhou and eastward to Shanghai—Suxi cuisine shares similarities with Huaiyang cuisine while maintaining its own distinctions. Famous for its shrimp, crab, perch, and water shield, as well as pastries and boat-style snacks, Suxi cuisine features dishes that focus on presentation, with vibrant colors and artistic styling.
Its clear broths and white stews are distinctive, often flavored with fermented rice and red yeast. The taste profile leans toward sweetness, particularly in Wuxi. The dishes are rich but not greasy, light yet flavorful—tender to the bone without falling apart, and smooth and crisp without losing their taste.
Xuhai Cuisine
Originally influenced by the flavors of Shandong (Qi and Lu cuisine), Xuhai cuisine makes use of various meats and excels in seafood. It is characterized by bold colors and salty flavors, incorporating pungent ingredients like garlic and onions. Its primary cooking methods include boiling, pan-frying, and deep-frying. However, all three regional branches—Huaiyang, Suxi, and Xuhai—have evolved over time.
Huaiyang cuisine has become slightly sweeter, likely influenced by Suxi cuisine, while Suxi—particularly Suzhou cuisine—has moderated its sweetness under Huaiyang’s influence. Xuhai cuisine has reduced its saltiness and adopted a more refined aesthetic, gradually aligning itself with the Huaiyang style.